The INDUSTRIAL Collection
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In the setting of a great metropolis, perfectly attuned to the open spaces of any big city, this is a collection that brings freedom of movement and a contemporary edge to couture.
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Never so fluid and lightweight as today, with not a trace of an imaginary life among trees and meadows, this season Emporio Armani is plunging into an intensely realistic urban townscape.
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Here we find overcoats, sometimes combined with waistcoats, to provide protection and warmth, while projecting a completely new image.
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This year shoulders are understated but lengths are impressive, 130 centimetres, the cut is fitted and pared down, with special attention paid to the construction of the collar asymmetric, double, stand-up with flap fastening against the cold all contributing to a deconstructed silhouette.
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Goodbye to nylon and quilting, this is the year for wool in a range of treatments (for instance boiled wool, in a precious combination with alpaca), nubuck style sheepskin and leather for a reassuring sense of solidity, maintained through a range of jackets in streaked wool with needle punch effects that seem scratched into the pile.
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This treatment recurs throughout the accessories, shoulder bags, bags and shoes, which as ever reference and emphasise the key themes of the collection.
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Among the most innovative designs of this season, trousers that unite the casual and sporty knit edging at the hem, which can be concealed by the full length of the leg with the elegant aplomb of the tailored darts at the waist, absolutely typical of the Armani style.
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The colour spectrum is precisely defined: camel; grey marl in a range from medium to dark; black for long overcoats and formal wear.
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